lunes, 29 de junio de 2015
Hood By Air tear up Paris with fetishistic SS16 show
Björk collaborator Arca made his runway debut in a collection based on ‘infantile glamour’ – featuring S&M style pacifiers and childlike hair bows
Text Emma Hope Allwood Photography Virginia Arcaro
Musician, producer and Björk/FKA twigs/Kanye collaborator Arca has another string to add to his bow: runway model. For Hood By Air’s SS16 show, the Venezuelan (aka Alejandro Ghersi) joined close friend and HBA founder Shayne Oliver’s gang on the catwalk outside the blazingly modern Philharmonie de Paris. Walking in a jacket that was cut into three, composing of a blazer, shirt and pair of denim trousers all zipped together, his mouth was held open by a metal guard, created by grill maestro Dolly Cohen. As he marched, DJ Total Freedom blasted out a set featuring his own hypnotic compositions.
Backstage, Oliver explained the reason for casting his partner in crime to Dazed Editor-in-Chief Isabella Burley: “I’ve been in Europe a lot and being here I got to spend more time with Alejandro,” he said. “I feel like this show is just a representation of that world.” While Riccardo Tisci may have broken a fashion record this week being the first to put a fellow designer in a campaign (Donatella Versace is starring for AW15) Oliver also showed he isn’t about rivalries – inviting fellow New York designer Telfar Clemens to take part in the show.
If HBA explored the loaded idea of Daddies in their last collection, where models’ mouths were padlocked and their arms pinned by their sides, this season (dubbed GALVANIZE) was the other side of the coin. In flowing pastel silhouettes, boys sported childlike hair clips (including ones that said ‘HBA’ and ‘69’) and bows in their faux fringes, with the words ‘coy’ and ‘top’ spelled out on their foreheads in stick on crystals. Oliver, playing with “being sick and being coy and being bashful” – concepts he admitted were unfamiliar territory – described the look as “infantile glamour”. The elements also referenced his friendship with Arca – “We’re like little kids,” he admitted. “We play around so much. It’s just infantile, and about that and that curiosity – when you’re a child, what’s so beautiful about this and that.”
“(Arca and I are) like little kids, we play around so much. It’s just infantile, and about that and that curiosity” – Shayne Oliver
[Haz click en el enlace de Dazed Mag y conoce más]